For the Love of Gambling

Thailand- The wheel spins, the cards are dealt, the race begins. Your eardrums pound in anticipation as your thoughts spin full circle and return asking that age-old question: “Am I lucky?” Games of random chance and decisions based on odds—always in the house’s favour—never deter the gambler.

Gambling appeals to virtually everyone. From the migrant worker to the stock market executive, all kinds of people are attracted to the myriad of options for betting money. Perhaps this is because everyday life involves risk and chance. Gambling activities transform these risks into a manageable, finite thing—a game. Understanding the rules of the game, the amount of risk, and the stakes, people can make a choice whether to engage in the activity. Hopes of winning money, the adrenaline rush of the unknown or leisurely fun entice people to gamble.

Since gambling is social and interactive, it is understandable that many Thais choose gambling as a favourite pastime. This should not be misconstrued to mean that Thais gamble more than citizens of other countries. According to a 1999 study by Pasuk Phongpaichit, an acclaimed economics researcher, “The proportion of people who gamble and the amount as a percent of GDP, are about the same in Thailand as in Australia and other countries.”

What makes Thailand truly unique is that horse racing and the government lottery stand as the only legal forms of gambling. Most of the gambling that occurs in Thailand happens in illegal or “underground” venues. Gaining access to the many forms of gambling which Thailand offers requires cash, connections and courage. Whether you are a high stakes or casual gambler, there is something for everyone in and around Chiang Mai.

Thailand has a long history of gambling. Reports dating from the 10th century discuss the Chinese game of bean guessing as one of the earliest gambling games. British East India documents from 1620 mention gambling as a major vice of Bangkok residents. King Rama III, (1824-51), recognising Thais’ love of gambling, allowed legal gambling dens throughout the kingdom to generate tax revenue. By the late 19th century, many people were addicted to gambling, which led to increases in bankruptcy and crime. This influenced King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) (1868-1910), to outlaw gambling. In the mid 1940’s the government once again experimented with gambling legalisation for tax purposes. A decree was passed allowing casinos to be run by the Ministry of Finance office. There was one stipulation: only members of the wealthy class were to be admitted. The first casino opened south of Bangkok in the Pranburi District. The Ministers in charge ignored the governmental regulation and opened its doors to anyone wishing to chance their luck. Massive debt slavery and degeneration of social values resulted, causing the media and public to demand the closure of all casinos. The government obliged and they remain illegal today.

While the current debate over reopening legal casinos in Thailand persists, many Thais refuse to wait for that day to occur. Instead, they simply pack a bag; visit the nearest ATM and board bus, car, van or airplane bound for the border areas of Cambodia, Burma or Laos. There are currently 34 casinos along Thailand’s border, patronised mainly by Thai citizens. According to a 2002 study by Chulalongkorn University, it is estimated that between 71 billion baht and 84 billion baht ($1.7 billion to $2 billion), is spent each year by Thai citizens at casinos in neighbouring countries.

The two casinos most accessible from Chiang Mai are located in Burma. The Regina Casino Entertainment Resort is in Tachelik, about 3 km north of Mae Sai. This casino boasts games such as mahjong, dice, blackjack, roulette, baccarat and slot machines. Any number of enthusiastic taxi drivers will transport you there after you cross the border. But, foreigners cannot stay overnight, so the gambling experience is limited to a mere afternoon.

Understanding the ebbs and flows of wins and losses, the truly diehard may opt for the Golden Triangle Paradise Resort, which allows overnight stays. It is located 45 minutes from Mae Sai, across the Mekong River from Sop Ruak, Thailand, which lies northwest of Chang Saen. Before arriving at the hotel a stop is made at Burmese immigration. Passports and a 500 baht surcharge per person are exchanged. Even though the boat crosses an international border, no official stamps are given disclosing your presence at the resort.

At first impression, this palatial, Lanna-style, US $25 million resort feels more like a 4-star hotel than a casino. Don’t expect to hear the familiar sounds of slot machine jingle-jangle upon entering the lobby. Even on a Saturday afternoon, this 144-room gambler’s haven seems strangely vacant. The only easily visible evidence of gambling consists of a back hallway lined with about 50 lonely video poker and slot machines.

Those curious enough to open unmarked doors in the middle of slot machine alley will find the elusive “gaming room”. It is extremely small in comparison to hotel-casinos in the West. One could even mistake the scene for a private party held in a VIP lounge. Minimum bets range between 50 and 10,000 baht (US $1.50 to US $250), the average lying somewhere around 3000 baht. Only Thai currency is used. Except for a chance to place your 50 baht chip on a number at the roulette wheel, these are mostly high stakes games with wealthy players. The casino includes a roulette wheel, one blackjack table and about a dozen baccarat tables. Baccarat is the game of choice for Thai gamblers here. Much like blackjack, baccarat is a card game where you play against the house. The object is to get as close to nine in two or three cards. If the sum of the hand is in the double digits, simply chop off the first number. Two hands are dealt, one representing the dealer, the other representing the player. Gamblers bet on the dealer to win, a tie (mostly, a bad choice), or the player.

While imbibing is allowed, most gamblers choose to drink only complimentary tea, which could explain why the atmosphere is so subdued. At this casino, gambling is a serious business. For such a small place to turn around 10 million baht (US $245,000) a day, it has to be. A Bangkok convenience store owner disclosed that he lost $350,000 baht (US $8,587) in one night playing baccarat. “But,” he added, “I’ll be back.”

If hobnobbing with the Thai elite seems too stuffy, then a quick jaunt to the Chiang Mai Horse Track is in order. The mountainous view and wide-open sky brings everyone closer with Chiang Mai’s farming roots. The rural setting is the perfect backdrop for an afternoon of inexpensive, leisure fun.

The track lies northwest of the moat behind Rama IX Park, which is located on a street connecting Chotana (Rt. 107) Road with the canal road. Races begin every Saturday at 12:30 pm and last until around 5:30 pm. On any given Saturday there can be between eight to ten races with 20 minute intermissions. Admittance is only 10 baht.

Even though avid race track fans study the 15 baht racing form like a holy book, predicting who will end up in the winner’s circle is often as easy as watching the odds, which are constantly changing. Why? Because the odds—based on how much money is placed on a horse—almost always predict the winner.